In our last blog we took a look at kit considerations so, as a natural progression, in this one we’ll explore how some of your kit might be used to journey around this winter.

The Basics

Carrying an Ice Axe

The ice axe is designed to provide support and security when moving around on snow, it can be used like a walking stick with the spike being driven into the ground or if you’re moving on steep terrain you may want to ‘dagger’ your pick into the snow.

Your axe should be carried with the pick facing backwards with your hand on the head with your index finger pointing down the shaft (see below). When moving horizontally across or diagonally up or down a slope the axe is held in the uphill hand and when moving directly up or down slope it’s held in your dominant hand. This way it’s most easily accessible if you were to trip or slip.

Kicking steps downhill using the ice axe as support in the uphill hand.

Digging a Stance

Often referred to as a bucket seat, a stance is a depression dug into the snow to allow security, it’s an essential skill to master. They’re great if you need a flat area to put your crampons on, to take a rest or simply want to stop and assess your options. If the snow is soft sometimes you’ll be able to stamp down and compact it to make your stance but if the snow is hard you’ll have to do some digging with your axe!

Movement on Snow

Unlike in summer where there are usually natural footholds in the terrain, when travelling over snow you often have to create these footholds yourself. The type of snow and/or slope angle will determine what equipment and technique that you use.

Kicking Steps

When kicking steps it is essential that the snow’s soft enough for your boot edge to cut into the snow. The step that you kick should be large enough for you to feel secure and angled slightly into the slope.

Moving Diagonally Uphill or Downhill

Use the serrated side edge of your winter boot to slice through the snow to create a step to tread into.

Moving Straight Uphill or Downhill Facing In

Kick into the snow with the toe of your boot.
Usually, you will kick in at least half the length of your boot.

Moving Straight Downhill Facing Out

If the snow is soft enough you can descend by sinking your heels into the snow with your toe lifted up in the air whilst in a crouching position.

Cutting Steps

When the snow is hard and/or icy it can be very difficult if not impossible to kick steps. If you’re going to continue your journey then you have two options; either put your crampons on, the sharp points will bite into the hard snow, alternatively you could cut some steps with your axe which you can then tread into.

Cutting steps can be time consuming and very tiring so usually it only makes sense to cut steps over a short distance. This way you save time by not having to take your crampons on and off and won’t get too tired.

Similarly to kicking steps, with all of these techniques, you should make sure that you ensure that the step is large enough for you to feel secure and slightly angled into the slope.

Moving Diagonally Uphill

With your axe in your uphill hand use the adze to cut a step in a slashing motion.
The step should be cut above and in front of you as you’re facing across the slope.
Focus on creating an arc with your ice axe skimming the top of the snow rather than digging straight down into the snow.

Moving Straight or Diagonally Downhill

Use the same slashing motion but hold your axe in your downhill hand and rest your opposite elbow on your knee (see below).

Moving Straight Uphill

Chip away a semi-circular step into the snow large enough for the toe of your boot.
Make sure when you’re cutting to chip away from you.

Crampons

When putting crampons on you first need to make sure that the ground’s as flat as possible and that there’s enough space for you to stand, put your bag down and lay your crampons out. You should ensure your crampons are the right size to fit your boot BEFORE you go out on the hill. Make sure there’s no snow or ice on the sole of your boot and step into your crampon. If you’re with someone else then it’s a good idea to buddy check to make sure that they’re fitted properly.

Flat footing

The idea of flat footing is that you are keeping all of your downward pointing crampon points biting into the snow. This feels slightly unnatural initially as it’s the opposite of what you learn when kicking steps. You should allow your ankles to roll if you’re on a gentle slope and as the gradient increases you might find yourself facing downhill, feet crossing over each other.

Front Pointing

Front pointing’s fairly self explanatory, you’re kicking the points on the front of your crampon into the snow to make progress. This is often used when traversing or travelling directly up or downhill. When moving on a steep slope you can lean into the slope using four points of contact and you’re axe can be used to dagger into the snow to allow more security (see below).

Hybrid Technique

The hybrid technique is a combination of both front pointing and flat footing. It is worthwhile alternating feet every 10-20 steps. This is the most efficient way of moving directly uphill.

Summary

This is a broad overview of some of the techniques you’ll require in the winter. If you’re going out to practice please make sure that you have the experience needed to decide on a safe location or are going out with someone who does. Stay tuned for more information on planning a safe day out!